West Wind Farm, winery remains a family operation

By JANE W. GRAHAM
AFP Correspondent

FORT CHISWELL, Va. — Grape vines growing on a hillside at the entrance to West Wind Farm, Vineyard and Winery in Wythe County is immediate evidence the location meets one of the needs of a vineyard. The land is well drained.
Another important factor for the winery is its location just off U.S. 52 South, minutes from the intersection of two of Virginia’s major interstates, I-81 and I-77, making it a nice stop on a long road trip.
The farm is operated by Paul and Brenda Hric who retired from a plant nursery in Greensboro, N.C. and returned to Brenda’s native Wythe County. In an interview at the winery, the couple explained that the farm had been in her family, the Humphries, since 1914 and went up for sale after the death of her uncle in 1999. The Hrics bought it in 2002 and set out their first vines in 2003. They opened the winery room and tasting facilities in 2006.
They are the third generation to farm this land and her nephews David and Jason Manley now work at West Wind, making it a four-generation farm. 
Paul said in the plant nursery in Greensboro they grew many different plants ranging from trees, shrubbery and perennials to hanging baskets, poinsettias, mums, bedding plants and vegetables.
This farm now has five acres of grapes with approximately 3,000 vines.  The Hrics also lease some vineyards in the Charlottesville, Va., area. 
They said they make 10 different wines from eight varieties, blending some of the varieties to make different wines.  Paul makes his own wine in the modern winery.
The year begins in April when pruning is done. 
“From then on it’s a matter of making sure the canopy is growing well,” Paul said.  Other chores include spraying to keep down diseases, mowing, and hedging.  Harvest takes place in October.
He laughs when he admits that retirement for him has become a full 40-hour work week.  
Brenda said the business is not limited to the farming and wine making aspects.  It includes a shop for selling their wine, wine-inspired foods such as cheese ball mixes and other snack food items and gift items including the work of local artisans.
They also have facilities for events such as weddings, showers, birthday parties and corporate meetings. During the winter, once a month they host wine dinners.
During the summer months, starting on the first Saturday in June and running to October they have music events on the farm.
Returning to the farming aspect of the business, Paul said the soils, a loam mix and well drained, are very suitable for growing grapes. 
The climate is key factor in the business because the area is susceptible to late spring frosts and cold snaps.  Typically, threat of frost ends in the May 10 to 15 range, but the Hrics remember one frost on May 20.
“It killed us,” the couple said. 
In the fall, frost can occur anytime from late September on into October. Paul reported that the third week in October is the time frost is usually expected.
One of the advantages of growing grapes in this climate is the typically warm days and cool nights, which help balance the acid in the grapes.
Unlike many farm operations, dry weather is welcome on a vineyard, they explained.  Wet weather fosters fungal types of diseases when the grapes get wet and stay moist between fruits.
If the weather gets too dry for growing, the Hrics grapes are prepared with a drip irrigation system in place.
Pest control is another challenge.  They have the vineyard surrounded by deer fence, but still see some damage from both deer and raccoons.  Bird damage is a new problem this season. 
Brenda said this year the grapes were besieged by what appeared to be different kinds of robins in large flocks.  A bird-lover who studied ornithology in college, she was a bit puzzled by what kind of bird was feasting on their grapes during harvest. There were hundreds of them, she said.
They tried scaring the birds with inflatable balloons that looks like owls and hawks but that did not work very well.
After the grapes are harvested they go through the pressing and fermenting processes in the well-equipped winery room.
After fermentation, the wines are stored in oak barrels and when the wines have reached the right stage, they are bottled, corked and capped, ready to be sold.
This is what Paul Hric calls retirement.